30 December 2016 // Serena Asselman //Rotterdam
Maison Martin Margiela, known for it's deconstructivisme, anonymity, and reinventing the existing. Starting off in the nineties after graduating from Antwerp artschool, being a part of a great group of fashion designers but choosing an own path.
Margiela always causes lots of excitement during their shows at Paris fashionweek, arranging big statement shows from day one. In the beginning Margiela couldn't afford the big named models and started covering the faces of the models during shows to make them anonymous, in the end it's about the clothing and not about the models wearing it. Another true Margiela trademark is reinventing the existing, creating new silhouets by using old ones. Creating these with unconvenitanal materials or inregular treatments. For example one collection was painted white, with regular latex that is mostly used to paint walls with. For another collection a disco ball was the inspiration, stunning silver jackets over covering nude colored bodysuits came out. Creating beautiful silhouets out of the excisting, showing stitches, patterns, inside-out looks or oversized garments, and make them look so good you want to own every piece.
All this time the identity of Martin Margiela stayed a mystery and he maintained a low personal profile until he quitted his job as designer for his own successful fashion brand. He choose John Galliano as his adherent, seen as quit a bold move. But I must say Iove what John is creating in name of Margiela staying true to his own heritage.