10 October 2015 // Anona van der Linde //Antwerp
When the fashion weeks are over I like to make myself a small overview of what caught my eye. Altough I still find it a weird thing, looking at next years' spring clothes while I’m sitting next to the heater with a wool scarf around my neck.
I always tend to look at the details of the collections rather than the whole collection look after look. It’s almost never that I love a collection in its entirety. It’s these details that I pick up on more easily and these are the parts of the collections that I wil remember. I've picked out some images of the spring/summer 2016 details that really captivated me. These images are really about certain feelings that are evoked. The way clashing colors are put together or the use of contrastive materials - it can be very inspiring. I think these images would be distinctive for every single one of us - color, shapes, volume, mood, the combination of these things; they all mean something different to us.
Easy, simple silhouettes work best for me, I don’t like it when clothes are too constructed. Though I can really enjoy the use of bold (but minimal) decoration. As long as the decoration doesn’t get too complictated but stays easy on the eyes. For example the way that Jonathan Anderson decorated his collection for Loewe, with the golden fish accessories and snap fasteners sewed on pants. He also uses very bold materials and colors but I think he manages really well to maintain a certain minimalism.
Vetements - a collective of the brothers Demna and Guram Gvasalia together with some anonymous friends, started only a year ago - showed a very modern, nonchalant look for S/S ’16. Combining bright colors with sober colors and also using the contrast between girly flowers and dresses with leather, tracksuits and oversized garments. They are known for their straightforward real clothes. Their approach is thinking about what people they know would want to wear; what the women they design for would want to wear. They revisit timeless pieces and think about how they can adjust the pieces to make them even more appealing. Their clothes are very versitale and modern, you could wear them for years. At some point all the designers in the collective worked for Maison Martin Margiela, which can be seen in their aesthetic that is minimal but edgy. Vetements' Demna Gvasalia is now appointed as the new artistic-director of Balenciaga, taking over from Alexander Wang - exciting!